Again. The first visit by the MAS and his wife was last
year, and we went back this time for a birthday party, and a short holiday.
We like Bali. We like the crowded streets and the shopping. We
like the range of food and the cheap beer. We like the weather and feeling so
relaxed away from the hubbub of ‘normal’ life. But most of all, the Balinese
people are welcoming, friendly, easy to get along with, and it seems, happy. Of
course, with the amount of money that visitors are pouring into their economy
it’s not surprising, and that leads me to worry about the colonialist or
imperialist nature of being an Australian holidaying in a south-east Asian
nation such as Indonesia. I have seen visitors exploiting the local situation,
but I figure those people who treat locals rudely or in a mean-spirited way
probably do the same thing at home. So I justify myself by being pleasant;
being grateful; by doing my best to ask questions and engage in some
conversation; by showing an interest in local culture; and by trying to speak
Bahasa (I’m not good, but I try, and it seems to be appreciated).
A further ethical issue about visiting this time was the
imminent eruption of Gunung Agung, in the north-east of the island. “How could
you visit Bali when there is a natural disaster occurring?” “How can you worry
about your holiday when the local people have been evacuated?” “They have more
to worry about than looking after you!” I heard or read these questions and
more in the lead up to our visit. Here’s my answer: Bali is clearly bigger than
you think it is. Where most visitors would be is at least 40km from the
mountain and well outside the exclusion zone. Without the money from visitors
the island’s economy would collapse. The Balinese Authorities repeated again
and again: ‘if you have plans to visit Bali, please come.’ We were aware of
some Balinese (friends of friends) who were away from the southern holiday part
of the island to look after evacuated family members. We know aid workers who
had been evacuated. So, there’s no denying the potential disaster is real, and
that those families who have been evacuated are in a ‘no-man’s land’, unable to
work nor to return until the danger is passed, and no one knows when that might
be. But, life goes on. We did take with us a big bag of face masks to be used
as needed by support workers among the Mt Agung evacuees. What more should we
do? Stay home?
Enough of my worrying. Some observations:
1.
Europeans clearly haven’t got the word yet about
how bad smoking is for one’s health, and how annoying it is for everybody
nearby. Our resort seemed to have many German and Russian tourists, and it
looked as though all of them smoked – whether they were 20 years old or 60. Really?
Still?
2.
Why can’t Australian businesses provide free
wifi everywhere as is available in so many other places?
3.
Watching the AFL Grand Final in a bar in Sanur
is a different experience to watching in a bar in Australia. My guess is that
it has to do with longing brought on by distance, but it might not be. It might
just be plenty of cheap Bintang.
4.
It’s weird bargaining and quibbling over
IR20,000 in the price of something. For goodness’ sake, it’s AU$2. Chances are
you are buying whatever it is for a much lower price than you would at home.
Just pay up with a smile and make someone’s day.
A highlight of our holiday was being given a Tri Datu by the
Balinese friend of an Australian friend. The Tri Datu is a simple woven
bracelet in red, white and black. The colours represent Brahma, Vishna and
Shiva, and it’s given to bless the wearer with longevity, power and strength.
According to tradition, it must be given (not bought) by a Balinese. I feel
quite honoured to have been given one.
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